The plug is different but the terminal pins are released the same way. Otherwise you could go with a flathead screw driver and place a cloth on the surface needed for prying. If anyone wants to add more info please feel free to do so, as much info we can have in one spot for better Cheers! The sensor is located on the front and rear suspension arm. And with this is my possibly 20th time that I've removed a bumper, it's too overkill just to safe me 8 screws, just not worthy, Cheers!! I see lessons learnt from when we removed mine have been applied here. Aftermarket may look nice from a few feet away but cheaper housings usually have brittle plastic. Once you have pried off the guard, refer to the circled access point as shown above - Shine your flashlight as a guide, then use your Torx Screw driver; you should be able to unscrew the final Torx screw on the headlight. The bumber is not secured by the same big bolts as my previous one, however I have made use of many zipties in addittion to the other screws - for piece of mind.
Make sure to note the space between the washer as this is important for the headlight balance. If not, they can be removed by reaching through the grills and unlatching them from the bumper. It's even called Golf wagon in Canada and overseas. The light comes from an arc of energy inside the bulb instead of a glowing wire heated with electricity inside the bulb. I'm also looking at the Performance Exhaust. The procedure is different because they don't have the chrome shield grille. If this happens auto leveling will be incorrect or disabled.
Punch a small hole through the main wire harness gasket at the firewall. Release the pink pin lock on the headlight plug by sliding it a few millimeters out. I hope I did not leave out any steps or screws. Also disconnect the footwell light and obd2 diagnostic port plug the purple thing. If it doesn't there are still torx screws holding it somewhere. The bumper will still be attached by the wires from you side markers, pull the wires out of the socket and the cover should now come right off. Either way you must still run the wire at pin 11 to have bi-xenon function.
So far I have the front lip and side skirts figured out. Is that you by any chance? Make sure that your plastic under motor tray goes above the valence when you reinstall the bumper. The 12 pin plug also has a lock that must be released before inserting the pins. Installation is opposite of install, reversing the instructions in the above order. With these undone, the grill can be removed by pulling carefully up and forward.
You start out at the grill by removing the hood unlatch pull. Didn't get pulled while I had plate off got it on now with some help from the parts guys at windrush! You can also use this article to remove the front grille. Hopefully the lower black grills were removed previously. With the grill removed you will see a large Torx screw. Remove the 8x T25 torx screws along the bottom lip of the bumper. Insert pin 11's wire from the right headlight into. Third Step: Use your prying tool and pry out the left and right bumper guards.
Now the bumper should start to get loose. I really need a rear valence that goes with the rieger pieces, so i dont have to buy a quad exhaust. From the same orientation as the photo below, gently press the little tab yellow arrow a little to the rear of the car and to the right to lift a little hook-lock. I'm sure installation costs a lot though. Sit it to the side on a blanket.
It has an extra wire for pin 11. And have you been pulled over for the front plate? I know it'll only void if the product I put is directly responsible for the problem, but I don't want the off chance that what I put will cause a problem. With you and your bud standing at the corners of the car, pull out from each wheel and pull towards the front of the car. Locate and loosen the two black bolts under the wheel liner and try again. What do I need to do to make this fit?. Remove the air intake box and battery box.
Getting true bi-xenon function The headlight housings are bi-xenon headlamps but when installed in a car with halogen headlamps, without running the shutter trigger wires, they will only work as low beam xenons. One of them is at the corner and is vertical, all others are horizontal. Fourth step: Ensure you disconnect the wiring behind the headlights using your elbow grease. The green arrows are clips that you will remove later. In any case, I used a dremel to file it down yellow arrow below. The bumper should come off easily. Golf, they are completely interchangeable.
If you add pin 11, wait until you're done before weatherproofing the plug. Both have dropped in price and are excellent choices for headlights. Sit it to the side on a blanket to avoid scratches. They are somewhat like fluorescent lights in that they use less energy once they're lit and need to warm up before reaching full brightness. There are four T25 Torx screws red arrows on each side holding the tray on, remove them and slide the tray back out of the friction clips yellow arrows on the front air dam. When you're done inserting all the pins, lock the pins by pushing in the direction of the stamped arrow.