Torque sequence refers ro the pattern in which you tighten the bolts. Torque for T45 torx screws on the lower rocker arm bearing carrier 18 Nm 13 ft. Intake manifold nuts are 24 ft-lbs and exhaust manifold nuts copper nuts are 18 ft-lbs. There's no sign of lack of oil, no scoring on the cylinder bores, no lip to suggest a snag. When setting the torque, reliance on the specifications set by design engineers is vital. For example, suppose the final torque on a bolt is 40 foot-lbs. Cheers Mike M Wood What studs are you using? Anyone any ideas of what might have caused this? M 6 screw 9 After 1000 km 600 miles , tighten cylinder head nuts in diagonally opposite sequence: 1.
Thanks all, didn't get around to actually torquing down the head today just yet. Unless you use the specific thread-locking compound that is made just for the application you are using it for - it will detract markedly from the actual torque setting - some by as much as 30%. Slacken and retighten M 10 screw 40 Timing gear carrier to cylinder head 9 Bearing cap on rocker shaft 15 Locknut, valve adjusting screw 8 Cylinder head cover to cylinder head 9 Camshaft end cover to cylinder head 9 Air intake connection to cylinder head 9 Camshaft Chain sprocket to camshaft 65 Camshaft bearing cap 15 Alternator mount cover M 6 screw 9 M 8 screw 20 Auxiliary shaft Chain sprocket to crankshaft 10 Chainwheel to auxiliary shaft 70 Chain tensioner housing to engine block 9 Oil filter Oil filter 11 Oil drain plug 32 Oil pump Mesh filter basket to engine block 9 Oil pump cover 9 Pressure relief valve 42 Oil pressure switch 30 Oil cooler Oil cooler pipe to engine block 10 Cooling oil line — banjo screw with oil vent valve 25 Oil cooler to fairing bracket 9 Oil cooler return line to engine block 35 Oil cooler connection to crankcase 9 Cylinders Tightening sequence: 1. The manufacturer usually stipulates that you must tighten the bolts in incremental steps. But then you just go back to the aforementioned head gasket problems.
The second rings are all sound, as is the oil control ring. Use a test lamp or multimeter and set the static timing properly before trying to start the engine. Locknut valve adjust 6 ft. It may be witchcraft, but it's always worked for me. Tension multiple ripped belt Poly-V 6 ft. And timing order is 1-3-4-2 if I remember right? Bores were fine, no sign of scouring or missing pieces which is good! One technical manual at Brigham Young University states that you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. But using Metro Turbo black gskt with new metro style nuts.
Set valve clearances accurately using 'rule-of-nine'. Keith Calver says 45 lb ft 60 Nm , dry for standard bolts in his article. That was sort-of passed down from an earlier generation of technicians and I just learned from that generation. You must adhere to this. Cutting a long story short - he stated he had only ever used 40lb ft on his engines - and he's been messing about with race A-series motors for longer than I have. This means that the ability to write new posts and access various member features will go away. Thanks a lot in advance.
Just do one nut at a time, but still in the correct sequence. I also got a transmission jack and enlisted the help of my room mate since I've heard the transmissions take a good bit of wiggling and maneuvering to get into the right place. Thanks all, didn't get around to actually torquing down the head today just yet. Cheers for the help guys. The distributor hasn't been moved, just that my brother took the ignition leads off without marking them up, and as I said - it's been a while since I last worked on A-series distributors and points etc.
It would have been very beneficial if you had performed a compression test and more helpful still if you'd performed a leak down test before tearing the engine down. I'm just a bit intimidated since this is a big and expensive job and the only other real work I've done on a car was putting a new cylinder head on my old cherokee. The last parts I need should be in in 2ish weeks so I'll hopefully be doing it then. Contributor Posts: 11797 Joined: Fri 19th Nov 2004, 09:18pm Location: Bolton - Northwest Has thanked: 0 time Been thanked: 0 time Tag Line: go play down your own end of the street! Can't remember how the subject came up - but head nuts torque settings came to the fore. Or why the standard set-up is finding it impossible to deal with all that 'energy'. Now I am even more confused. Thanks The firing order is 1-3-4-2 as stated.
Tighten cylinder head -- done only at 600 miles, four nuts, do one nut at a time, loosen nut and torque to 15 ft. The main reason there are several is because over-torquing will almost certainly distort the gasket to the point where failure is likely to occur. My guess if you are only using the turbo gasket, but your car is not turboed, use the non-turbo head torque figures in the correct tightening sequence. Fuel pump to tank 4. Find some quality time to absorb the information in this video.
Fuel tank to rear frame 16 ft. This is absolutely essential, since you can destroy the engine if you do not follow instructions to the letter. Internal combustion engines run the gamut from small handheld model airplane units to large ship engines. Haynes says metro turbo 55 ibft. And that's the way they're done at the factory. It would have been very beneficial if you had performed a compression test and more helpful still if you'd performed a leak down test before tearing the engine down. And then there's the problem of pulling the stud thread out of the block.
Still had to put the block on the gearbox, put the timingcover and clutch + housing on. The most likely areas are the fire-rings that seal the head face chambers to block face bores off. In the instruction manual, a torque sequence is specified. It may well not really be necessary but, as they say, it's hard to break the habits of a lifetime. I've got a clutch centering tool, bloody expensive friggin thing, so hopefully that will help get everything lined up perfectly. However, don't set the timing by eye.
Any insight would be most appreciated. Strangely cylinder two was ok. Tighten nut to wrench angle 180° 4. Was just thinking ahead, what is the bolt tightening sequence for the cylinder head? Make sure that the bolt holes in the block are free of any oil or dirt otherwise tightening the head bolts may crack the block. You may have to before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.